Borrowed clothes, shared identity: study reveals the hidden social life of sharing fashion

The simple everyday act of borrowing a sibling’s jacket or wearing a partner’s hoodie can subtly shape identity and relationships, according to new research from the University of Birmingham.

The study, published in the journal Sociology, identifies a phenomenon called ‘self-blending’, where wearing someone else’s clothing allows aspects of that person’s identity to be symbolically incorporated into one’s own while strengthening emotional connections.

Researchers introduce the concept of the ‘porous sheath’ to describe how clothing, which is normally considered a personal possession that protects the boundaries around the body, becomes a socially shared boundary that connects people when garments circulate informally in daily life.

Based on interviews with 40 people aged 19–45 who regularly borrow and/or lend clothes, researchers identified three key roles that shared garments can play in people’s lives:

• Social: building connections and strengthening friendships, trust and emotional bonds.
• Utilitarian: helping people dress for specific occasions or make practical use of clothing without the burdens or costs of ownership.
• Hedonic: enabling opportunities for enjoyment, self-expression and playful experimentation with style and fashion identity.

Participants described borrowing clothes for many situations, from dressing for special occasions to spontaneous wardrobe swaps with friends. These exchanges often also carry deeper social meanings.

One interviewee described sharing a coat with her mother and sister. When she wore it, she said it felt as though she was “taking a part of them” with her into her everyday life. Others described borrowing clothes as a way of exploring new versions of themselves. One participant said sharing garments allowed her to try colours and styles she would never normally buy, helping her discover what suited her personal style.

For many participants, lending clothes was also an act of trust. Allowing friends to borrow personal items, and trusting that they would be cared for, became part of how relationships developed and deepened.

Researchers say that sharing clothes can offer a different way of engaging with fashion. By borrowing garments rather than buying new ones, people can assemble fresh outfits, experiment with trends and access a wider range of styles.

Unlike commercial clothing rental platforms, these everyday sharing practices are embedded in social relationships rather than financial transactions.

Dr Kelly Wang, Assistant Professor of Marketing at the University of Birmingham, said: “Clothes sharing is often seen as a practical activity, borrowing something for an event or swapping items with friends. But our research shows these exchanges can carry deeper social and emotional meanings.

Dr Doga Istanbulluoglu, Assistant Professor of Marketing at the University of Birmingham, said: “When people wear someone else’s clothes, they can also be expressing connection, trust and shared identity.”

Caroline Moraes, Professor of Marketing and Consumer Research at the University of Birmingham and Director of the Centre for Responsible Business, said: “Fashion is usually discussed in terms of what individuals buy and own and their self-identity. Our research shifts the focus to what happens when garments move between people, revealing the social and emotional life of clothes. It also highlights the ways in which consumers can contribute to a longer, more circular life for garments, helping reduce post-consumer textile waste and contributing to more sustainable modes of consumption.”

This comes as policymakers increasingly focus on the environmental impact of clothing. The European Commission has recently introduced new measures under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) aimed at preventing the destruction of unsold clothes and shoes, with the goal of cutting waste, reducing environmental damage and supporting businesses that embrace more circular fashion models.